Stylist Tips
How to Style Curly Hair Step by Step
The easy formula I use to style my curly clients in salon to get beautiful, defined curls that last.
Skip to:
Does curl type or hair porosity matter for styling?
Should you style curly hair wet or damp?
Best shampoo and conditioner for curly hair
How often should I wash curly hair?
Do I need to clarify my curls?
How to style curly hair step by step [with videos]
How much product should you use on curly hair?
Common mistakes that ruin curly hair styling
How to get defined curls without crunch
Overview
In this blog, we're talking everything curly hair. I'll answer the most common questions I get, as a Licensed Hairstylist with 20 years experience. We'll also go through the simple routine I use on most of my curly clients in salon, that you can do at home.
It's important to note that there are differing opinions on the information below in the hairstylist and curly hair community. This information is meant to be general and may not work for everyone. I'm always available in the chat to provide personalized recommendations for you.
Does curl type or hair porosity matter for styling?
Curl type can impact which products you use to style with, while hair porosity usually isn't a factor.
Your curl pattern (wavy, curly, tight curly) may change what your hair needs, but this will also depend on your styling preferences - whether you want fluffy curls, or more defined smooth curls. You can see more on each product page.
I find that hair porosity (especially “low” porosity) is confused with buildup - see “Do I need to clarify my curls” for more on this. If you do have proper low porosity hair, characterized by not being able to absorb water as well, you may have to spend more time saturating your hair with water while shampooing and also before or during applying your styling products.
Curl Inspiration
Should you style curly hair wet or damp?
Unless you want really fluffy and pouffy curls, it’s best to style your hair when it’s soaking wet, not damp. When your hair is wet, you can see the beautiful curl clumps, and strong definition. If you apply your hold products to the hair when it’s in this state, it will set that shape while it dries and keep the definition. If your hair is damp or has already started to dry, you can usually start to see some frizz, and the curl clumps may not be as defined. If this is already happening before you put your hold product in (like gel), it will not be able to reverse it.
Best shampoo and conditioner for curly hair
The best shampoo and conditioner for curly hair is the one that addresses what your own personal hair needs - cleanse level, light, medium or rich moisture, and maybe some protein. I’m going to contradict what most product companies are selling you - there is no such thing as a “curly hair shampoo”. Whether hair is straight, wavy, curly or tight curly, hair is hair. Some hair will be more fragile and could use more treatments, but that’s not necessarily a hair type or pattern issue.
SHAMPOO
The shampoo you choose should be primarily based on what your scalp needs. If you’re prone to getting an oily scalp, you may want to choose a deeper cleansing shampoo, and if you have a dry scalp a moisturizing shampoo could be a good option.
CONDITIONER
The conditioner you choose should be primarily based on what your hair needs. Is your hair fine and gets weighed down easily? A light moisture conditioner would be a great fit. If you have coarse and brittle hair, a rich moisturizing conditioner will be best.
Whatever you choose - setting you and your curls up for success starts in the shower with choosing the right shampoo and conditioner. Healthy curls hold their shape for longer, will be easier to style and simply look better.
How often should I wash curly hair?
Curly hair should be washed anywhere from daily to weekly, depending on your hair and scalp needs. If you find that your scalp gets oily easily, it’s fine to wash it every day, provided that you’re using the correct shampoo (I would recommend something that isn’t overly cleansing in this case), and that it’s high quality to ensure your hair isn’t dried out. Most people find that washing twice a week is best for them - with a few refreshes in between, more on that below -while some people prefer to wash only once a week! If you are in the once a week camp, it’s important to use a shampoo that is cleansing enough to make sure that everything is properly washed off.
I don’t recommend consistently going longer than 7 days between washes, as you can start to run into scalp and buildup issues. Our scalp is skin… and you wouldn’t go 10 days without washing your face or showering right? For healthy hair and scalp regular cleansing is the most important step.
Do I need to clarify my curls?
It may be helpful to use a clarifying shampoo on your curls, if you’re using a lot of products especially if they contain silicones or heavy oils and butters. When these products are used consistently they will contribute to buildup on the hair and scalp causing many issues. If you don’t use silicones or heavy oils and butters, you can still have a minor amount of buildup simply from things like hard water, pollution, wild fire smoke, and sometimes a lack of proper shampooing.
This coating on the outside of the hair strand means that moisture and hydration can’t get to the hair and it will start to dry it out. It will also mean that your styling will get harder, your curls may feel heavy and your products aren’t working as well. On the scalp, buildup can cause irritation, flaking, itch and the feeling if your hair never really being clean.
For most people I prefer the Detox Hair Mask to the traditional clarifying shampoo, because it won’t strip the hair and cause excess dryness. This can be used anywhere from once a week to once a month, and is amazing for a curly hair reset! You’ll notice your hair is easier to style, your products work better and your curls pop.
How to Style Curly Hair Step by Step
STEP 1
Detangle
Detangle first, ideally in the shower with conditioner, but can also be with a proper wet brush after showering, or ven just raking your fingers through! I like to do this upside down (or side to side) to make sure that the hair is hanging off the scalp - especially if you want any kind of volume!
STEP 2
Apply leave in or cream
Next, rake through a leave in or cream - leave ins will be lighter and good for finer hair and looser curls, while creams are great for most curls! If you have any challenges with frizz, I would opt for a cream.
STEP 3
Water water water!
One of the most important things people miss is making sure their hair is wet enough - it should be dripping! Water helps the curls to clump, which creates that gorgeous definition without frizz once it's dried. We want to apply our products when the hair is in this very wet state, to set it in it's curl pattern well.
STEP 4
Rake through gel
Apply gel, making sure to rake from root to ends in all directions, then scrunch ( you should hear a squishy sound from all that water!). Work section by section - how many will depend on the density of your hair, but it should mean you can distribute the gel on every hair.
STEP 5
Apply foam or mousse
Once gel is applied throughout the whole head, scrunch in foam. I will usually gently place the foam onto the hair and then lift up. Do not disturb the curl clumps by raking your hands through at this point. The foam will help to lift curls and as a secondary hold product will help with style longevity.
STEP 6
Remove excess water
Now that our curl pattern is set with the products, you can gently squeeze the excess water out with a soft towel or t-shirt.
STEP 7
Hover diffuse
Start by hovering the diffuser over the curls until it’s about 50% dry. This ensures that our curl pattern sets properly and reduces the chance of frizz. You can tilt your head side to side in this stage to get the hair off the scalp and in different directions.
STEP 8
Lift diffuse
Once the curl cast has start to set, and your hair is about 50% dry, you can start to lift the curls using the diffuser. This will encourage more volume and lift. If you're really prone to frizz I would recommend hover drying until the hair is 75% dry before starting this.
STEP 9
Soften the curl cast
Once about 95% dry, you can soften the curl cast and shake out the style! No one is looking for the "crunchy" or "wet look", but the good news is, all you have to do is shake out that crunchy feeling, and you're left with beautifully defined, natural looking curls that last. I like to add a tiny amount of hair oil or shine serum at this stage to help soften.
How much product should you use on curly hair?
How much product to use on curly hair depends primarily on your hair density and a bit on your hair pattern and preferences! All the products that I sell on my shop are very concentrated so it’s best to start with a smaller amount and add more as needed.
Common mistakes that ruin curly hair styling
Common mistakes that ruin your curly hair style are: the hair not being wet enough to apply products, not properly distributing your product through the hair, touching your hair too much before it’s dry or not using the right products for the style you want.
HAIR ISN'T WET ENOUGH
When you’re applying your products, your hair should be soaking wet (some of my clients keep their styling products in the shower!) to ensure the best results. When your curls are wet, they’re more likely to be defined in the curl clumps, so if you put your hair gel on in that state it will set that way dry. After applying your styling products, then you can scrunch out the excess water with a towel and either air dry or diffuse.
IMPROPER DISTRIBUTION OF PRODUCT
When some hair gets gel or mousse, and some doesn’t, it will result in uneven curls. I recommend raking the product through thoroughly with your fingers, and for thick hair you may want to section first.
TOUCHING YOUR HAIR TOO MUCH
This is so common, and it’s such a simple fix. When you are touching and moving your hair too much before it’s dry (aka set in it’s curl style), it can result in frizz and uneven curls. To avoid this, simply apply your products on wet hair, scrunch out the excess water with a towel and then air dry or diffuse without moving the hair too much, or raking your fingers through it.
USING THE WRONG PRODUCTS
The best way to understand what products you should be using is to talk with a hairstylist that works with curly hair. Using a heavy gel when you want a natural feel or using only a curl cream when you want defined curls will end in frustration. If you don’t have one in your area, I’m available personally via the Chat button to offer a custom recommendation for your curls and your preferences. I also am adding video explainers to most product pages.
How to get defined curls without crunch
The key to getting defined curls without crunch, you want to ensure your hair is soaking wet, apply a medium hold gel, and then once it’s diffused, scrunch out the curl cast completely. You may also choose to pair your gel with a leave in or curl cream first, to ensure that there is some softness in your stylers.
Some people are scared of that crunchy feeling, but the “curl cast” is an important part of getting defined curls. The only difference is once you’ve gotten to the dry crunchy part, you then scrunch out the curl cast (light oil optional). The crunch will disappear and you’ll be left with beautiful natural feeling curls.
How to refresh curly hair between wash days
To refresh your curls between wash day, all you’ll need is some water and possibly a light product like a leave in or foam.
- When you wake up, give your curls a minute. They may look a little wild, but sometimes they just need a minute to settle. You can help them by putting your fingers in at the root and massaging the scalp, then waiting 10 minutes (maybe while you drink your coffee or tea).
- If they still need some refining, you can spray a light amount of water with a misting spray bottle or wet your hands and make a “prayer hands” motion over the curls to dampen.
- You may be able to simply use water which will reactivate the products you already applied on wash day, and then scrunch. If you feel you need a little boost, you can either apply a small amount of a leave in, or scrunch in a light foam. Then air dry or quickly diffuse!
How to sleep with curls
To sleep with curls you can use a silk or satin pillowcase/scarf, a bonnet or you can utilize 'the pineapple'.
THE PINEAPPLE
This is a technique where you gently gather your curls up to the top of your head, and lightly secure with a silk or satin scrunchy. This way when you lie down on the pillow, the curls are protected at the top of your head, and the place where your hair may be flattened is underneath. This can be utilized with the other methods above or on it’s own.
SILK OR SATIN PILLOWCASE
I love this option since it’s one of the easiest! Silk or satin has a smoother surface than something like cotton which causes friction as you move at night. This allows the hair to slide over the pillowcase without creating frizz.
SILK OR SATIN SCARF
You can also wrap your hair in a silk or satin scarf, though this is harder as it can shift at night. It can be utilized with “the pineapple” as well so that the curls don’t get crushed.
BONNET
Bonnets can be a great option, I find this is a personal preference. Like the pillowcase or scarf, bonnets are made out of silk or satin, but they will be more secure on your head. Make sure they aren’t too tight on your hair line and if you have longer hair that you get a large size.